Thoughts on Japan
Where do I start?
I have never wanted to
go to a country so badly. 2009 was the year I decided I wanted to experience
living abroad. I applied online to a bunch of English language schools in Japan
and even had some interviews in Toronto (that is an entire other blog post).
Long story short, I didn’t get the job I wanted and my most recent attempt to
work in Japan was thwarted due to my inability to answer the question, “What is
the difference between safe and safety?”. I believe that my efforts to live
there and being denied time and time again has only fueled my intrigue and motivation
to explore Japan. It’s like Japan is a woman who is playing hard to get. It’s
not fun if it’s too easy so Japan has been this 10-year challenge. However,
while most women continue to deny me, Japan was gracious enough to allow me
entry into its borders. Here is that story.
One reason I moved to
Korea was its proximity to Japan. All of my upcoming holidays are in Japan and
I am (slowly) trying to learn Japanese. I booked a flight in September for Tokyo
but due to some unforeseen Korean visa work issues, I had to cancel this
flight. I don’t remember ever having to cancel a flight before in my entire
life. It felt as thought I was in the movie The Truman Show and while
people said Japan existed, I started to feel like the world was conspiring to
keep me out. After my cancelled trip, I looked towards November where I could take
a day off and found a cheap flight to Osaka. I would not be kept away.
The day
finally came. It was a Thursday. I was jacked up and high on life. My students
were confused that an adult could be this excited. I felt like a child who was
told they were about to get on a flight to the North Pole and meet Santa Claus.
I get assigned an emergency window seat because that’s what happens when you
travel alone; ticket counter people feel sorry for you that you are unloved. Three
female Japanese friends were sitting in the seats beside me. I had my Japanese
notebook with all of my Japanese phrases and words that I memorized ready to
use. I was nervous and couldn’t find the courage to try and speak Japanese to
them. I waited for a different opportunity.
When the drink cart came around, I
bought them and myself Asahi beers. Beer is a universal sign for let’s be
friends. We eventually started talking and I got to say a few short sentences
of my very limited Japanese. They were mildly impressed. We finally land. I couldn’t
wait to get off that airplane. I asked why nobody is getting off. We have been
rerouted to Nagoya because Peach airlines apparently isn’t a real airline that
can be relied upon. The Truman Show.
I decided to make the best
of the situation so I start playing some Japanese music from my Japan Spotify
playlist, ask these Japanese young adults some Bert questions and order another
Asahi. I am having the most fun on the aircraft by far; nobody else is enjoying
this experience so it should not have come as a surprise when the flight attendant
told us to keep it down and turn off the music. Japanese people really do love
rules.
Two hours later, we
take off and eventually get to Osaka. I planned on having three nights out but
due to this delay, I have lost a night. The Truman Show.
I spend a few hours
killing time eating at a traditional Burger King at the airport and make my way
into downtown Osaka on the first train into the city. Here. We. Go.
Japanese salary men
started getting on at different stops. I kept thinking, “Who is that? Where is
he going? How Japanese is his job? What’s he thinking about?”.
I get to the station,
find my hostel, and go straight for Koyasan, a UNESCO world heritage site. It’s
about an hour and half away from the city. The leaves are changing and is in a
remote part of the Japanese mountains. Here is what that area looks like:
After spending most of
the day there, I went back to my hostel for a quick nap since it had been over
30 hours since I had slept and apparently our bodies need rest. After my nap,
it was time to explore. I stayed near Namba station which is essentially a lesser
Times Square. Tons of people, this famous Glico sign which is famous for reasons
that are a little unclear to me and countless bars and restaurants. I had a
list of places to eat and drink at but the endless amount of choice made a
simple dinner decision impossible to make so I went with what I knew and found
a Thai restaurant that offered to make me food that I have only ever found in
Thailand. It was so great that I went back the next night. I don’t regret this
choice. I can get Japanese food whenever I want. This Thai dish was specific to
this restaurant and I would make the same choice again. One takeaway from this trip
has been that while my Japan dream was coming true, it seemed like the travel Gods
were sending me a message: Yes, Japan is great but don’t forget where you came
from.
My night did not
involve partying because I am over clubs and I just wanted to take in all the
sights and sounds. While they say Osaka is the party capital of Japan, I
know how going to a club alone goes and wasn’t super keen on drinking alone and
not talking to anyone on my first free night in Japan.
Day 2: You know how
people say the train system in Japan can be confusing? They aren’t lying. I got
lost numerous times trying to get to my Cycle Osaka bike tour. I ended up arriving
just in time and got lucky with a fun group of Australians and a couple on
their honeymoon (show-offs). Since everyone had someone in the group to talk to,
I took this opportunity to pummel the guide with every question I had about
Japan. It was an enlightening experience. Coles notes version of Osaka is that
it was decimated during the war, was the capital until Tokyo took that title
and is known as the party capital of Japan. The most interesting piece of information
he taught us was that an American who was living in Japan during World War 2
told the US government that bombing Kyoto would be akin to cultural genocide so
the government spared Kyoto from destruction out of respect for its cultures.
Here are some of the
sights we visited on the tour:
I used to love walking
tours but bike tours are much more entertaining and active. You get to see way
more of the city and biking is a bit more fun than walking around like a
postman.
After the tour I got
lost again on the train system and eventually retreated back to the safety of
my hostel. Hostels. My next topic. I get that people stay in hostels to save
money but it seems like people really aren’t trying too hard to be social. I know,
I know, I’m not the most social person but at least make a small effort to get
to know people. I understand some hostels have a more social atmosphere than
others but people area way too obsessed with their phones and technology. I wanted
change the vibe. I asked a Japanese worker if many people hung out or partied
in the common area. Her answer was essentially no. I had one night to change
this. I travel with red solo cups for this purpose.
So, I asked a gentleman
from Singapore if he would like to help me finish the bottle of gin I picked up
at the airport. A few other people agree to my offer of free gin with ice and
mix. I come prepared. Usually, someone would come in, see the vibe was zero
then go back to their room, but now there were people talking, drinking and listening
to music. We started playing beer pong then eventually had a group of about
10-12 people playing kings cup. I went back to the front desk to show them this
masterpiece I created. They weren’t as excited as I was that I had brought this
party together, they probably just thought of the mess we were making. The
games came to a close when the group decided to go to karaoke. I declined to
join because I had done my part and wanted to keep exploring on my own. At one
point during the night, I told everyone to sign the guest book that was in the common
area. A new person to the room asked if I was their leader. One of the guys replied,
yes, he is our leader. It was the high point of my night.
Day 3: Woke up not
feeling 100% but was determined to eat some Okonomiyaki. I attempted to find an
Okonomiyaki spot that I found online but I had a difficult time finding it in
the mass of restaurants and shops. Walked around for an hour super patiently until
I decided no food is worth this expense of energy. I walked back to my hostel
and talked with some Nigerian guys I met the night before. Interesting facts I
learned about Nigeria:
-People in Nigeria
speak Pidgin English
https://theculturetrip.com/africa/nigeria/articles/15-nigerian-pidgin-english-phrases-you-need-to-know/
-There are over 250
local languages.
-If I went there, I might
be kidnapped but was assured I wouldn’t be murdered.
Before catching the
train to the airport, I remembered seeing an Okonomiyaki spot in the neighbourhood
I was staying in so decided to try one last time. Let me tell you, it was not
worth the effort. I guess there are a bunch of different kinds to get but I did
not like any part of this meal. I’m glad I experienced this famous Osaka food
but would not recommend you do the same.
Therefore, is Japan
overrated? I can’t answer that question. While I do love to hate what other people
love (which may make me a hipster), I feel that I do not have enough first hand
experience in this fantasy dreamland to make an informed decision. I like to view
my first Japan like this:
I have found a famous
and well-rated all you can eat buffet (Japan is the buffet if you are having
trouble following along). My first plate I grabbed a few things that looked good
but it wasn’t exactly my taste or what I had in mind. However, while I was
getting my food, I saw a bunch of other things I wanted to try so now that my
first plate is finished, I can’t wait to get back in line and taste something
even more delectable.
Those are my thoughts
on Japan. Living in Seoul is comfortable and I understand why people stay here
long term. I am going to Shanghai the first weekend of December then spending
the Christmas holiday in Hokkaido snowboarding and striving for a more
authentic Japanese experience. I will also be returning to Japan for my January
and April break. I wish you good health and good fortune. Dreams do come true
people; just need to wait a decade or so.
Learn from yesterday, live for
today, hope for tomorrow.
Japanese proverb
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